I've rebuilt many. I have had good luck with Raybestos. I usually use the steel pistons instead of the "plastic" because they will not break.

 

I've used Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake pads with good results on the trucks in my dads construction company fleet along with my personal trucks.

 

I use Wagner ThermoQuiet Brake pads with good results also. I only have 50k on them so far but lots of material left. I turned the rotors at about 65,000 miles, only because I wanted the truck to stop very smooth. I have 115k on the truck now...still stops smooth.

 

Since these are the rears and I don't use truck much I went ahead and ordered the Wagner Thermoquiets, If I get 30k miles in 7-8 years on them I will be happy. I will take them back apart when truck hits 40,000 miles to see how they look.

When I come around to doing the fronts I will probably go with Raybestos.

As for the caliper pistons I ordered two aftermarket of the same material(plastic) and if they fit like the OEM's I will order another two for the other side. I didn't want to lose my OEM calipers on a core trade in so I will test these and if they don't work out I will get the OEM pistons.

this is also a good time for me to do another brake fluid flush as well although fluid is as clear as new. I am using Prestone DOT3 & 4 Synthetic

thank you for the responses and for the brand options.

 

You use to be able to buy the rebuild caliper kits, and they were cheap. the pistons were a lot more than the kits. now the exchange calipers are so cheap it is not worth it.
Personally I bought new kits from Rock Auto, I bought the Power stop kits, drilled and slotted rotors, new calipers and pads.
You have to be real anal about getting the mounts, on the fronts.
Just a thought!

 

My orders arrived faster than expected.

I just have a concern about the Wagner pads I received so I included some pics to show them. Hope I uploaded them properly.

First I would like to point out that the box says made in USA :usflag BUT nowhere on the pads does it show the Wagner brand or part # or any printing on pads showing where they are made so I'm hoping I didn't get a set of cheap imports inside a nice Wagner box.

Pictures show the pads on both sides but I don't know what a Wagner pad should look like so I 'm hoping someone here does. Box does not have a factory seal so it can easily be opened and pads swapped with imports and I will never know, but the pads were sealed in clear plastic without any printing. Also came with the clips in a sealed Wagner bag as pictured.

I already installed them and they fit perfect.

Now for the pistons, I thought I was buying aftermarket pistons since where I purchased them there was no information just part #. Well I received them and they turned out to be OEM TRW's:rock @ $7.50 each shipped I went ahead and ordered the other two for other side. These came in factory sealed bag and marked MADE IN USA:usflag

I found what may have caused the one piston to lock on driver's rear side and it was the lower one. There is a small pocket inside the caliper at the very bottom below the back of lower piston and it was completely filled with sludge. I am thinking the sludge was from break-in debris that made its way to that lower spot which then started to jam into the lower piston making it hard to slide. I will see what the other side looks like if it also has a lower piston stuck and sludge. Figured I would put this information out here just in case it can be of any help to someone in the future.

 

They look like Wagner pads that I have seen in the past. They do not look like Chinese made.

 

There was a show a few years back, something about back yard garage or what ever. Anyway they had a segment about brake pads, it was a factory in the US and they made a lot of brake shoes for a lot of different companies to each companies specs and different backing plates.
When I use to rebuild calipers I found many had a black grit in the caliper. At that time the pistons were chrome plated, and you could take them apart and reuse everything, after a good cleaning, with no leaks, in a pinch.
I find now that most calipers I check the bleeder is seized.
Just a thought!

 

Brake flush every 2yrs regardless of miles can do wonders for caliper longevity.

However, even with me doing that my wife has still managed to burn up the brakes twice now while descending steep grades while towing the horses...claims she was in tow haul too, on both occasions...but 4 women together in one truck after riding all day...it's more likely she was too busy talking...hope she dosen't read this.

Harry

 

Harry's playing with fire.

Glad to see you went with some USA made pads. Federal-mogul has several brands that are USA made MOOG is another many of their driveline parts are USA.

 

Forgot to answer Coppers question...I agree with Dave-dbennett...the pads look fine.

Harry

 

I agree that the fluid should be changed according to maintenance schedule, but don't think that once that sludge builds up down in that pocket, a fluid change will get it out. The only way to get that sludge cleaned up is to removed the lower piston and wipe sludge out then shoot some brake cleaner for a good final cleaning. Let the cleaner dry up then pop the piston back in there.

I hope to get to the other side today to see what it looks like but I'm guessing the same sludge is in there. I am also going to try and get to the fronts as I am betting there will be sludge down in there as well. The sludge finds the lowest spots to settle and sit.

I also agree that, for some, a trade-in for rebuilt calipers is the best option but I have 30,370 miles on my truck and feel I need to keep my own. The low mileage is what made me look for the parts to rebuild mine instead.

Not that I am going the rebuilt route but when rebuilds are purchased are they TRW's or do you get what you pay for(import calipers)? I have never had to buy calipers before for any of my vehicles and this is the first caliper problem I have ever encountered in owning several vehicles over the last 22 years.

 

When I am doing the brakes I always clamp off the rubber hose,and open the bleeder before I push back the pads. a good friend of mine changed the front brakes and destroyed the ABS module from grit going backwards into the module. It was a $700 dollar part.
After I have the callipers pushed fully in I leave open the bleeders and allow the fluid to drain thru. filling the reservoir so I do not get a bubble in the system.
If the fluid in the master cylinder is not to my liking I syphon it out and clean the bowel. then refill and flush.
I also remove the bleeder and put on some never size.
Brake fluid is so cheap and without proper flushing it will cost you so much extra. I have a customer that every year when he comes back from his winter in Texas has me change all the fluid.
Just a thought!

 

I used valvoline dot 3 and 4 synthetic last time thoughts/opinions on a brand/formulation? Should probably do it again.

 

Those are Wagner pads made in Smithville, TN, the Federal-Mogul plant that makes all the Wagner aftermarket pads (for now) as well as private labeling for other companies as John mentioned. The F-M plant that makes the OE pads for this truck is located in Orangeburg, SC and is a different friction compound.

Just as with the pads, TRW private labels both caliper pistons and aftermarket rebuild kits for some of the aftermarket sources. The aftermarket trend has been moving towards selling rebuilt calipers rather then garages rebuilding calipers (and wheel cylinders) so less aftermarket sources are investing in the tooling to make their own parts, especially with the point of rebuilds extending to longer distances and less market potential.

 

Most of the brake fluid sold in the US used to be made and packaged at Wagner's Berkeley, MO plant for decades, private labeling again. That plant closed years ago and now most fluid is manufactured out of the country. I would not be so concerned about which supplier but on the type. Both 3 and 4 end up at the same boiling point after 3 years in service, so it depends on how often you are going to flush the brake system.

All of the US auto manufacturers design around a fluid boiling point of DOT 3 that has been in service for 4 years, about as low as it's going to get. So unless you are doing heavy service work or tow heavy you can stay with 3. The main concern is just getting the water entrained fluid out, so it's best to flush every 2-3 years.

Ford's Racing DOT 4 used to be the best 4 fluid out there.

 

Here's an update to my story.

Just received the other two TRW pistons today and went ahead to pull apart the other rear brake caliper. There was also some sludge down in that pocket but not as much as the driver's rear.

Passenger rear caliper was not locking up as bad though as the pads are worn evenly, but it was still locking up. Driver's side had the piston side pad with a big wear difference from top to bottom as the bottom was far thinner with material.

Now I am waiting for the piston seal kit to get it all back together, should be here in two days. I reused the same seals on the driver's side as they were not bad but my conscious is causing me to pull it all back apart and do it over, I couldn't find the seal kit until a few days ago so I ordered just one set to make sure I like what I get first. Passenger rear Piston Dust Cover seals are pretty badly cracked and holly.

While waiting for my parts for rears to arrive I started looking for fronts and just ordered a set of Raybestos pads. I have about 60% left in front but they are still original pads from when I purchased truck new, so I figure it will be a good idea to replace since I was able to snag a brand new set of Raybestos for $15 shipped. I will be looking for the seals for the front calipers as well. I just looked them over and the pistons are working perfectly in the front but want to pull the calipers and look for sludge.

While doing the driver caliper I lost quite a bit of fluid trying to get the stuck piston out. I kept topping off with Valvoline DOT3 & 4 Synthetic and went through two 32 ounce bottles. Today I was at walmart and they only had Prestone DOT3 Synthetic 32 ounce so that is what I got, no big deal to mix the two. By the time I finish the passenger rear I will need another 32 ounces to top off, then the fronts will probably need another 32 ounces. I just keep letting it bleed to make sure I never get it back up the pipline.

 

Good luck with $15 pads.

You should put a board between the seat and the brake pedal to slightly apply the brakes to restrict fluid loss, and pull the brake light fuse. The last thing you want to do is run the master dry and have to deal with air in the ABS controller.

 

The fronts I got are Raybestos ATD1069M and for $15 NIB I think it was a very good deal, these are actually branded right on the pads so they are Raybestos.

I have been topping off with DOT3 synthetic and reservoir is currently full and it always has had fluid in it, never let go empty yet. I have the caliper completely off and so I sized up a small tree branch to push into the end of the hose to stop fluid from flowing until I receive the seal/dust covers so far it is not leaking for the last 2 days. I should get the seals tomorrow and get it back together.

Need to make another trip to grab another 32oz of fluid to top it all off in the end, so far I have gone through 96oz of new fluid mostly just on the rears. I have bled the fronts some as well, will probably wait a bit longer to do the front pads then I will rebuild the front calipers as well to install the new pads.

This is taking me more time than I thought but I don't use truck much so I can wait to do this at my own pace.

 

Those are $60 pads so if you got "real" pads then it is a very good deal.

The company I worked for and Ford as well has had a real issue with counterfeit parts to the point parts and boxes would have a slight tell "fault" so when warranty came back we could tell if the parts were real or not. It's amazing what is in the marketplace. Other suppliers have the same issue. So hopefully these are good.

 

I guess nowadays even if something is branded does not mean you are actually buying the real thing. I don't know for sure now but here are the pics of the set I got, maybe you or someone else can tell me by looking pics over if these I got are real or not.

I will still be using them regardless and the only issue I have with buying these is where they were made, in MEXICO(at least still made in the Americas). I thought I had read somewhere that all Raybestos pads were US made but I guess not.

 

2 more pics.

Let me know if anything seems off in looking over the pics.

 

There's no way to know unless you work for Raybestos and know the tell. I didn't mean to alarm you as you can get a good deal like that if someone bought those from a good source but just never used them. But everything you showed looks fine. The steel backs look to be made by Aimco would be the correct North American source.

Just about all large manufacturer aftermarket pads are going to be made out of Mexico or India soon, just as aftermarket rotors are out of the USA. The aftermarket price pressure is forcing manufacturing to go to cheaper labor even for those plants who are in the non-union south.

 

First, here's a quick read that will help any of you who aren't industry people understand brake fluid better.

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

I have, for the past 15 years and continue to now, recommended that people always seek out the highest quality fluid you can, barring using an exotic race fluid. The way to ensure this is by getting the fluid with the highest wet and dry boiling points. My experience had found this to be Valvoline SynPower Dot 4 fluid. Contrary to the old wisdom that Ford/Motorcraft heavy duty Dot 3 was the best non-racing fluid, I have found the Valvoline SynPower fluid to hold up better in direct acting hydraulic clutch release bearings and in moderately prepared track cars than even some popular race fluids like Motul and Willwood at a fraction of their costs.

Another note, if you start off with new brake pads, and your reservoir level is at the full line, don't randomly add fluid. The reservoir level serves as an overall indicator of brake system wear, the engineers know the volume of the calipers, so the reservoir range is calculated to accommodate the volume added to the calipers with worn pads. When doing that brake system fluid flush, note the level on the reservoir with a Sharpie. When your flush is complete, refill to that level and remove the mark with a little brake cleaner on a rag. When your fluid level reaches the minimum mark, it's time to inspect and probably replace pads. Using this method of monitoring brake health and pad life every time you check your oil and fluid levels will keep you from having to replace damaged calipers and rotors unnecessarily.

 

I did my front brakes today. Driver side pads were not wearing even I found the caliper pins locked up and decided new pads, reman calipers and rotors. I was able to get USA Wagner pads, Mexico rebuilt calipers and Chinese rotors about $250. At first I was feeling like I was wasting money just to fix one side that had started to be an issue till I looked at the passenger side pads. Keep in mind it appeared I had 50% life left on the pads that were installed before I bought the truck. I believe they were installed by the dealer. I pulled the pads and it looked strange. When I picked at with a screwdriver it peeled away. I was now glad I dug into this. One side was dragging and wearing poorly and the other peeled away very easy.

I'll post a pic tomorrow got tied up with other commitments and didn't get finished yet. Also going to look closely at the rears too.

 

Here are some pics of the brake pads I removed from the truck.

The one worn at an angle was the reason I decided to pull them.

Pads are black with 2 shims stacked on them. I dislike the shims because they rust away. Not sure what brand they are all traces of identification are gone. I am pretty sure they are not Ford OEM since the rears are and indicated by the blue paint and ford logo stamped on the ears.

My rears seem good so I am leaving them alone