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Ok.,
J'ai fait a confirmé les numéros j'ai fait qoute dans la fausse échelle cela devrait être 165 pieds de livres . Pas 250 Nm

Désolé de cela et je ne peux pas capable d'édition mon envoi par la poste passé dû le délai fixé si un des Modérateurs faites s'il vous plaît un fond de note de mon dernier envoi par la poste les faire savoir que les numéros corrects sont ici

I did confirmed the numbers I did qoute in wrong scale it should be 165 lbs ft. not the 250 Nm

Sorry about that and I can not able edit my past posting due the time limit so one of the Moderators please make a note bottom of my last posting to let them know the correct numbers is here

Merci,Marc
 
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Une fois que vous organisez le démarrer de moteur nous laissent savoir comment il est sorti sur celui-ci.

Once you get the engine start up let us know how it come out on this one.

Merci,Marc
 
Victor, that looks nice!! What kind of prep other than washing did you do? Primer? Hope it runs as nice as it looks now! Engine in Boss's rig looks almost as bad as yours did and I have no idea how long it was a plow truck, tho it does have 220,000 miles.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Just came back home from streight 4 days of plowing and salting.

:imok

Victor, that looks nice!! ...
Thanks

...
What kind of prep other than washing did you do? ...
1. Washed
2. Put 2 cans of Gang Engine Degreeser. Let it sit for over night.
3. With paint brush put some diese fuel. let it sit for another night.
4. Hot steam pressure washed.
5. Removed some parts and sand blasted.
6. Primed with 500* engine primer.
7. Pained with 500* engine paint.
8. On exhaust and turbo used 2000* primer, no paint.
9. Cover with 2 coats of 500* clear coating.

... Hope it runs as nice as it looks now! ...
me too

... Engine in Boss's rig looks almost as bad as yours did and I have no idea how long it was a plow truck, tho it does have 220,000 miles.
220K miles it's not too much. If it was taken care of, you can get much more. My frient did 350,000 on his DT466. If your boss wants, take care of it. Just make sure were is no rust hols comming on Valve cover and/or other thin parts. Try to get out of it as much grees and rust as posible.
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
It is alive !!! :peelout
obviosly no project without problems. My'n is not exeption.
1. I see some oil leak from under head gascket. I am actualy checked/retighted all bolts. All of them was not even moved.
2. The distance between fan and radiator about 1 inch. I can take spacer/adapter and make in shoter. Look at the picture above. It is gray part connected to the water pump pulley. Shuold I?
3. Starts a bit hard. White smoke very bad on cold. Need to press pedal and hold it. About 30*F rigft now. Some white smoke on hot. Looks like fuel not burning correctly. I guess it is injectors springs needs to be addresed. This is 1977 engine.
4. I have no tachometer. I mean tech not moving at all after initial circling. Is the tech feed comes from alternator or from flywheel?
5. Fan cover is not mach at all. I guess I gona need to fabricate one.
 
It is alive !!! :peelout
obviosly no project without problems.
GREAT!!!!!

2. The distance between fan and radiator about 1 inch. I can take spacer/adapter and make in shoter. Look at the picture above. It is gray part connected to the water pump pulley. Shuold I?
Most fans a MUCH further back from the rad than 1 inch, I'd leave it alone.

3. Starts a bit hard. White smoke very bad on cold. Need to press pedal and hold it. About 30*F rigft now. Some white smoke on hot. Looks like fuel not burning correctly. I guess it is injectors springs needs to be addresed. This is 1977 engine.
Late timing, VERY late.

4. I have no tachometer. I mean tech not moving at all after initial circling. Is the tech feed comes from alternator or from flywheel?
Truck most likely uses an electric signal off the FW housing (check DT360 removed for sensor). I don't think the DT466A can work that way but you can cheaply get a "tach drive" that converts the 466 mechanical drive to an electric signal. The mechanical drive is off the front of the gearcase cover in line with the IP.
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
...
Most fans a MUCH further back from the rad than 1 inch, I'd leave it alone.
...
Thanks I'll leave it alone. just one negative portion: if I need to remove fan - I need to tilt or even remove radiator.

...
Late timing, VERY late
....
I am sure in some of descussion it was covered how to ajast timing on DT466 with rotary pump. I can't find it. If you know, could you please, post the link.

...
Truck most likely uses an electric signal off the FW housing (check DT360 removed for sensor). I don't think the DT466A can work that way but you can cheaply get a "tach drive" that converts the 466 mechanical drive to an electric signal. The mechanical drive is off the front of the gearcase cover in line with the IP.
Yep, it has a sensor on the bell housing of DT360. Unfortunately DT466 did not have a place to mount it. I kind of hoped to take a signal from alternator. Sould of just swap housings. They are the same.
 
Voici ma réponse.,

*2 laissent l'entretoise seule et ne réduisent pas l'entretoise autrement le ventilateur peut frapper la poulie de vilebrequin si non prudent.

*3 Vous avez très tard le chronométrage vous devriez être dans 16 à 19 °AD.

*4 Regardent la pompe d'injecteur en conduisent le front juste il y a un port pour la promenade en voiture de tachymètre mech là.

Mais becarefull quand vous ordonnez certains a 2 proportion to1 et certains sont 1 à 1 proportion {useally des pompes Rotatoires sont à 1 à 1 proportion tandis que des pompes intégrées sont 2 à 1 proportion.}

Le tachymètre prend l'emplacement de capteur typiquement sur le côté gauche du moteur sur le volant hébergeant un jour ou l'autre vous verrez une prise de pipe qui sera l'emplacement pour l'installer.


Here is my answer .,


#2 leave the spacer alone and do not reduce the spacer otherwise the fan can hit the crankshaft pulley if not careful.

#3 You have very late timing you should be in 16 to 19° BDTC.

#4 Look at the injector pump drive right front of it there is a port for mech tachometer drive there.
But becarefull when you order some have 2 to1 ratio and some are 1 to 1 ratio { useally Rotary pumps are at 1 to 1 ratio while inline pumps are 2 to 1 ratio.}

The tachometer pick up sensor location typically on left side of the engine on the flywheel housing sometime you will see a pipe plug that will be the location to install it.

Merci,
Marc
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Here is the sensor with wire on old DT360 (pic #1)

Here is nothink on new DT466 (pic #2)

Here is mechanical tachometer gears on DT466 (pic #3), but cover does not have means to conect (pic #4).
 

Attachments

You can go off the alternator if it has a tach terminal and the cluster supports it.
 
Yea that would make me a little nervous as well.

The closer the fan is to the Rad, the BETTER it will cool, so if you want to move the fan back, make sure you get a shroud on it. The blades don't deflect much, they spin a LOT slower than on a car or pickup, so the balancer should not be any problem.

I REALLY like your touch-up work on the engine paint, looks SHARP!
 
new gasket, head studs, main studs, heavy duty rod bolts, ported head, race prepped pump, big ol turbo, and you'll be set!
 
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